Well readers, I been talking about planning the trip, talking about the days leading up to the trip, the one night in Bangkok, the three nights in KL, and so now its time to actually show you all it's real. Im here on the bottom tip of West Java the main island of Indonesia where the capital Jakarta is. My guy Danny picked us up at the airport right on time and me and my wingman have settled in to Cimaja like we never left. We arrived too late too surf on the first day so did what any elite athlete would do - got drunk like shit! But not before strolling down to the beach for a little surf check....:)
But the next morning we shook off the hangover and carefully chose the right weapons for the task at hand. Swell was pumping and probably little bigger than we really cared for on our first day but thats just how it is. I waxed up my twin fin. I love this board - it was custom made for me by a shaper in Thailand. It has a beautiful shape and just the right amount of volume to make it easy to paddle in to bigger waves. The rails stick like glue and the 2 large fins make it a little loose in the back but easy to turn and gently carve. It's an artist's board. Here's me getting my head around some pretty solid sets on the first morning.....
The wave here in Cimaja is a great wave to start on before we head to the big wave spot further up the coast called Sarwana. It's a right hander and is fairly easy to read. There is an angled reef that means the wave pretty much starts at the same spot every time and with luck stays open all the way to shore giving you a ride of about 100m on a good set. This area is very far from Bali so gets very few visitors which means the line up is never crowded and the locals are friendly and relaxed. Nobody is fighting for waves. Here's my wingman getting a few nice ones.....
Here's a text book example of the cardinal sin in surfing. It's called dropping in. As in you take off on to the wave when there is already a surfer on it on your inside. This is me and my bro - he dropped on me and when I yelled HEY!, he turned to me and told me to fuck off. Unbelievable, hahaha. Dont worry though folks I made sure he paid me in beer at the end of the day!
Surfing makes you hungry! The amount of energy that gets expended in a two hour session is hard to explain. Luckily for us our guy Danny and his wife Giggie make the most incredible food - breakfast, lunch and dinner is just amazing and we pretty much fall in to a food coma after every meal. Here was last night's dinner. Spanish Mackerel sate and some kind of eggplant dish with sambal. Just absolute five star food and just a few bucks a head....
This community is all about sports so I dont wanna go too far off track. Ultimately this trip is all about surfing beautiful waves and getting in shape and getting fit and healthy. We will do at least 4 hours surfing every day and eat fresh home cooked food in between. Drink gallons of water and try to slow down on the beers. Surf trips are just great for the soul and I have 4 weeks ahead of me. I will try to post a couple times a week.
I'm Jobiker and I'm on a surf trip with my best friend in West Java. Peace!
