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Hell, no! Flat tire again.
I've been using tubes for ages on my bicycles, despite knowing about the tech to eliminate this hassle. One day I got two flat tires within 30 minutes while cycle touring across Europe. F@$k!
Although tubes vs. tubeless is an endless discussion among cyclists, we can all agree that punctures are a pain in the behind. Thankfully the technology to mitigate punctures exists, and with a bit of patience anyone can give it a try.
In this post we'll set a tubeless wheel from start to finish.
List of materials:
- Tubeless ready (TR) tire* (see details below)
- Tire sealant
- Valve
- Rim tape** (see details below)
- High volume pump or air-compressor
- Tire lever
*You can use any branding as long as the tire is proper for tubeless (nomenclature TR)
**You can use proper tubeless tape (Gorilla, Stans, DT Swiss, etc). Famous rim tapes can be expensive, so I use 3M electrical tape combined with 3M silver tape.
Alright! First of all let's clean the bicycle. A clean rig is easier to work on and opens the opportunity for other inspections. Take the opportunity to check the brakes, chain, and gears.
Move on to remove the wheel from the bike. Deflate the tire. Use the levers to remove one side of the tire and proceed to remove the inner tube. Lastly, remove the tire completely.
Some tires sit tight on the rim, so you might need to use some force. Also, use plastic levers to avoid damaging the rim. Set the tire and tube aside — you won't need them anymore.
Note: I don't recommend using worn out tires for a fresh tubeless system.
Next step is about cleaning the rim surface. If there's a tape already installed on the rim, remove. I like to use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning.
Note: It's crucial that the inner rim surface is clean and dry to guarantee proper tape fixture.
Now it's time to install the tubeless rim tape. This is the most important step, otherwise the sealant might leak. Some tape brands say one full turn around the rim is enough; others recommend two turns. I'm using a combination of electrical tape and silver tape — two turns of electrical tape + one turn of silver tape on top. (see note)
Note: This arrangement has been tested by several friends of mine, but it's on your own risk. The only tape we know works well is from 3M. If you don't want to risk, go for proper tubeless tapes.
Important: Bicycle rims come in various inner dimensions. My rim is 29mm ID, so it required three turns of electrical tape to cover the inner surface from side to side. Rims with 25mm ID or lower only require two turns. It's important that the surface is covered from side to side to seal perfectly.
Tip: Start with the tape a few centimeters before the valve hole and finish a few centimeters past the valve hole. As shown below.
Patience is key!
Go slowly, pulling the tape and rubbing your finger to ensure it sticks securely in place.
Once the inner surface is covered in electrical tape, it's time to stick the silver tape. If you are using proper tubeless material there's no need for the silver tape
Note: Proper tubeless tapes come in various dimensions to suit different rims. In our case, we need to cut the silver tape according to the inner dimension of our rim. In my case, 29mm.
The rim is fully sealed now and sealant won't leak through the spokes. The next step is to install the valve. Use a toothpick to mark the hole. Then, push the valve through the tape. Avoid using a knife or scissors to drill the hole; the valve itself does that.
Some valves come with a rubber o'ring that goes before the nut. Don't use any tools to tighten the nut. Lock it in place using your fingers until you can't tighten it anymore.
We are almost there! Next up we need to install the tire on the rim. Some kevlar tires are super tight and require some strength to insert. Pay attention to the tire rotation to insert it correctly. Once the tire is inserted, we can inflate.
Note: Tubeless tires fit tight on the inner rim grooves, so you'll hear it pop in place. When it pops, it means the tire is fixed in place. Sometimes the pump won't have enough air speed to inflate the tire — remember, there's no tube anymore. If your pump isn't inflating, you might need an air-compressor.
The last step is to fill the system with sealant. I like to use a syringe to insert sealant through the valve. For that, you need to remove the valve's upper part with a proper valve tool.
Tip: When injecting sealant be careful to not squish your tire (that is deflated) into the ground, otherwise sealant will spill out of the valve. Some sealant manufacturers recommend 100ml for a first application. Finish applying sealant, screw the valve back on, and now you are ready to inflate the tire for good.
Conclusion
I know there are several nomenclatures to absorb, but the process itself is simple and straight-forward. Before you make a mess: read this tutorial and don't be afraid to ask me questions. Also, be patient! Don't rush.
Once your tubeless system is ready, it's time to say good-bye to tubes and tube punctures.
Good luck.
Peace.
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Disclaimer: The author of this post is a convict broke backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking and more than 5.000 km cycling. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.
