Olive groves, hidden gorges, panoramic views and the most beautiful mountain villages of the island: a charming long-distance hiking trail leads away from mass tourism across Mallorca's wild Tramuntana mountains.
Over the hills and far wary
We want to hike the Tramuntana mountains complete - a hard way, dry and beautiful. Follow me all the way to the other side of a well known and complete unknown isle. (Please read chapter one here, chapter two here, three here, four here and five.)
The picturesque GR 221 long-distance hiking trail leads right through the Tramuntana mountains, covering almost 150 kilometers from Port d'Andratx in the southwest to Port de Pollença in the extreme northwest. Today our target. Back into the boots.
This tree is so beautiful
Once again, we set our sights on a summit! From the monastery of Lluc, the great pilgrimage center with the famous Madonnenfıgur, the Museum of Sacred Art and the Blavets Choir today we will go to Puig Tomir, a peak that is exactly 1,104 meters high. In Nepal, no one would get up in the morning for this, certainly no one would leave the morning concert of the angelic voices of the Blavets before the last piece of sound has faded away.
Back to the sea
All mountains so small, so high
But in Mallorca, the island of the sun, this mountain is a true giant. Think about it: We're coming from deep down! Coincidentally, on our route to Dfurchquerung the entire Tramuntana Mountains is also on the way to Pollença. So let's go!
Flowers in the window
Our todays destination, the Puig Tomir, rises high above the monastery of Lluc. We take the old way to Pollença, passing the farms Menut and Binifaldó, which are relatively famous, without anyone can tell you why actually. Through the every day holm oak forest it goes in one great step for a man, but a small leap for mankind up to the tree line, behind it immediately begin the usual scree fields.
The way so long
They reach up to a sharp saddle and then you hike already then steeply uphill to a wide ridge that leads all the way to the top. The higher we climb, the more beautiful the view becomes over the wild coast and the Mediterranean Sea.
Small step for mankind
A truly majestic view
A truly majestic view then awaits at the summit. A kilometer above the sea surface, we look far out into the country - at mountains, hills and plains, coasts and baysıı, the bays of Pollença and Alcüdia and the three capes in the north of the island, Formentor, Pinar and Ferrutx, they are spread out like on a 3D-map in front of us.
Looking into the bay
The two highest mountains of Mallorca, Puig de Massanella and Puig Major in the south, are also visible. To hear is in the distance again and again the tender bell ringing of peacefully grazing sheep. Every wild goat seems to be surprised here by human presence.
Along the shore
On the broad ridge we descend and after about 10 minutes we see a "snow house" in good condition. In the past snow was really stored here in winter to cool meat and drinks in summer. No refrigerators. All nature. On a meadow at the pass we take a break, then we continue downhill. Through scrub and scree we reach the farm "Fartàritx".
The sea under us
To the bay of Pollença
Slowly the forest path leads down from the Tramuntana mountains to the bay of Pollença. Oranges, figs, almonds, pears and apricots characterize the valley. Crossing an old Roman bridge, we enter the town center with its magnificent mansions, palaces and parish church.
Gradually the path becomes flat, the last stretch is partly pflastered. Cruel, because it's a pflaster that can kill your feet softly. Every step you take is a step that breaks you a little bit. The last stage along the road can be saved. Here, the bus will do, too, if the longing to jump into the sea becomes too great.
Down to Pollenca
After the hike, we reach the cultural capital of the north, Pollença. Only late in the evening, after eight hours in the boots, the stage destination is reached. No more longing for culture or anything else. In a 200-year-old farmhouse a few beers and beds are waiting for us. It's an idyllic hiking hotel with sheep graze under citrus trees. Peace returns into us.
No rest for the wicked
Under hordes of tourists
But Pollença isn't living from peace. Those who earn good money from vacationers as business or restaurant owners are looking forward to the real tourist season. Some ordinary residents, on the other hand, would sometimes like to curse the hordes of tourists with their cameras and sun hats.
Palms
Too much, too loud, too stressful. As many places here Pollença have now turned into a museum. Pedestrian zones resemble large souvenir stores. "We have five pearl stores alone, so there's no denying that they're not meant for people from the village," our hostel father grumbles. However, he says, tourism provides important income for the town hall - for example, through parking fees or the levies paid by the businessmen - and thus benefits the whole village.
No one on the street
Away from the beaches
But it is difficult to reconcile the interests of locals and visitors. No one should not be allowed to come here, but everyone can't either. Distribution away from the beaches, more into the inland, where the undiscovered hiking areas are waiting, that could be the solution.
Tree on the hill
That would be an idea. The west and northwest offer more space, where the mighty Serra de Tramuntana rises on a diagonal from Andratx to Pollenca and climbers are rewarded for their efforts after almost every bend in the path with a new gradiosen view of the sea.
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A few more pictures for you:
Quiet city
A rock
Wild life
The colors of the woods
Natural refrigerator
Old limon tree
Over a train
Looking down to the sea
a snow chamber
This was the tour