Sunday, 2022-08-07
image source: Paco Pater
Ida Batara Turun Kabeh ceremony at the largest temple in Bali, Besakih Temple, with Mount Agung in the background, attended by all Hindus from all over Bali.
The great temple of Besakih is the largest and holiest temple, the mother temple of Hindu Bali, and an icon of the Island of the Gods in Bali. It is located at an elevation of 950 meters above sea level on the slopes of the foot of Mount Agung, the highest volcano on the island, in the village of Besakih, Rendang District, Karangasem Regency.
The Great Besikah Temple features three temples representing the Hindu trinity. In the center, the biggest temple is Pura Penataran Agung with white banners representing Shiva the destroyer. To the right is Pura Kiduling Kreteg with red banners representing Brahma, the creator, and to the left is Pura Batu Madeg with black banners representing Vishnu the preserver. There are other 18 smaller companion temples. The temple complex is built on 7 terraces which represent the 7 universes in Hindu belief. Each terrace has shrines and statues. This temple is the center of all activities of all temples in Bali.
Various religious events are often held here. Every year, at least 70 festivals are held in this temple complex. Balinese also have rituals in this temple during the full moon called Piodalan (Odalan) celebration. Piodalan is another important Bali Hindu ritual to ensure spiritual harmony.
We were lucky enough when we visited the Besakih temple at the end of April 2017. It coincided with one of the Hindu holidays called "Ida Batara Turun Kabeh" which was held for 21 days from 11 April - 3 May 2017.
The "Ida Batara Turun Kabeh" ceremony is held and attended by all Hindus from every region of Bali every year. The ceremony depicts the gathering and uniting of all the Gods in the Great Hall of Besakih Temple to give blessings to their devotees according to the level of karma and devotion.
Notice no cars are allowed to pass. Cars must be parked in the designated parking lot and visitors can use motorcycle taxis or walk uphill about 1 km to get to the temple location.
My 80-year-old mother looked so happy and excited to ride a motorcycle taxi even though I was a bit anxious and very concerned about her safety.
Off we go to the location, about 1 km away and uphill!
The busy parking area before the entrance to the temple complex.
During the festival, access to the temple is restricted. All cars must be parked approximately 1 km from the temple. From the car park, visitors can walk uphill or use motorcycle taxis to get to the temple. All visitors are required to wear a proper top and a sarong to enter the temple area. There are plenty of shops around that sell traditional ceremonial apparel and offerings. This is the best time for local businesses to earn extra money from car parking fees, motorcycle taxis, and shops selling traditional attires and offerings.
The courtyard in front of the complex with a view of half covered mount Agung in clouds in the background.
The black and white checkered cloth is called Poleng. In Bali, you will see Poleng everywhere, either in front of the house, in the temple, or on the side of the road. The black and white is a manifestation of the balance of the universe – the good and the evil. When an object is wearing this cloth, it means that there's a spirit residing within. The cloth keeps the spirit and its energy inside and protects the people from being disturbed by the spirit.
Who's the tourist here?
Offerings to the Gods carried on women's heads consist of flowers, fruits, and rice cakes. These offerings will be placed at several strategic places around the temple and blessed with holy water by Pemangku or priests.
On this particular occasion, both my wife and my sister participated in the procession. I could not join as I had to accompany my 80-year-old mother to rest at a shop nearby just before the steep climb to the main temple – too steep for my mother to climb.
Late in the afternoon, worshippers are still coming and leaving.
This temple is easy to find and considered one of the best tourist destinations in Bali. Participating in a procession will give a different perspective than only observing. The best time to visit is early in the morning or late afternoon when there is little activity.
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ABOUT ME
A baby boomer who is trying to embrace and adapt to the new digital world. After spending more than 30 years in the IT world before retiring, now running an online vegetable delivery and hydroponics equipment supplies business with his wife based in Jakarta, Indonesia. Enjoy traveling, cooking, writing, and all IT-related stuff. You're always welcome to leave a comment or feedback, and an upvote or reblog is also greatly appreciated.