After spending two amazing days in Hanoi, enjoying the charming city, it was time to explore the natural side. We had booked a one day tour via Airbnb to Ninh Binh. It was going to be scenic, peaceful, and very green. So, when the alarm screamed at 6 AM, I groaned, rolled over, but eventually dragged myself up. Our bus was supposed to pick us up at 7:30 so we had to get ready on time.
Since there wasn't a lot of time and not many places were open so early, Ramesh (
Meeting ‘Happy’
We were in the lobby on time and we were greeted by this sweet, enthusiastic guy who introduced himself as 'Happy'. Now that was obviously not his real name. During the bus ride he told us his name, which was not an easy one. So to make it easy on us foreigners he goes by the name Happy. Pretty cute if you ask me. And more so because it totally suited his personality. Anyways, we got into the tour bus, picked up a few more fellow travelers along the way, and off we went to explore Ninh Binh.
During the bus ride Happy provided a lot of information on what was in store for us today and also about the history of the place and the significance of it in Vietnamese culture. It was actually quite fun and Happy's excitement in sharing all of it made it all the more interesting. After he was done talking, I promptly fell asleep till we reached our next stop.
Our first stop was a souvenir shop, which I was so not into. Anyways we got into the place and as expected the prices were sky high. No one from our bus fell victim to this, and most just used the restrooms and left.
Hoa Lu – The Ancient Capital
Next up, we reached Hoa Lu. Located in Ninh Binh Province, Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries during the Dinh and early Le dynasties. Nestled among stunning limestone mountains and lush greenery, Hoa Lu is not just historically significant but also naturally beautiful.
The site includes the temples of King Dinh Tien Hoang and King Le Dai Hanh, which were built to honor the emperors who once ruled from this area. Visiting Hoa Lu felt like stepping into a quiet piece of Vietnam’s history. The ancient capital is surrounded by mountains, which made the whole place feel peaceful and tucked away from the world. I walked through old temples with beautiful carvings and peaceful courtyards.
The temples had that old-world charm with their red pillars, detailed carvings, and classic Vietnamese architecture. It was peaceful in a way that made you want to pause and take it all in. Our guide, Happy, shared some quick historical facts as well.
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Inside the temple, there’s a beautiful wooden altar with a golden statue of King Dinh, surrounded by intricate carvings of dragons, clouds, and phoenixes—symbols of royalty and power in Vietnamese culture. The air was heavy with incense, and despite the tourists around, the atmosphere felt sacred and calm.
Walking Through Royal Ruins
We also walked through Nen Cung Dien Dinh-Le, the ruins of the royal palace. Today, only stone foundations and scattered ruins remain, but this place was once the center of imperial Vietnam. It housed the royal court and was the heart of the country’s first independent empire. As we walked through the worn stones and quiet paths, it wasn’t hard to picture the grandeur that once existed here.
Despite its age, the site still carries a deep sense of history and pride. Now, I love imagining what places must’ve looked like centuries ago — the royal robes, the ceremonies, the whispering politics behind closed doors. Even though there wasn’t much left except stone foundations and a few moss-covered corners, it still felt like a walk through history.
A (Non-)Cycling Detour
A (Non-)Cycling Detour
Next on the agenda was cycling through the countryside. The thing is, I don’t know how to ride a bicycle. Yep. It’s one of those things I never really got around to learning. And today wasn’t the day I was going to start, especially not on the slightly bumpy village roads of Vietnam with tour folks watching. When were booking the tour, I was a bit worried that this not cycling part might take away the fun so we had texted the experience host through the Airbnb app and she assured us that there was no need to worry.
Buffet Break
Buffet Break
So while Ramesh and the others took off on their 45-minute scenic ride past rice paddies and mountain silhouettes, I stayed in the bus with one other traveler. She was this sweet Indian woman who was here on a trip with her husband. We chatted till the bus reached our lunch spot.
By the time the bikers rolled in, Ramesh looked like he’d had the time of his life — sweaty but smiling. We sat down for a buffet lunch that had a bit of everything: meat, fish, veggies, fried rice, fruits, desserts… nothing Michelin-starred, but exactly what we needed after a morning of temples and (in his case) cardio.
The Breathtaking Trang An
The Breathtaking Trang An
Lunch done, we headed to Trang An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And let me just say — it was stunning. Like, jaw-on-the-floor kind of pretty. Green water, massive limestone cliffs, caves you float through in a rowboat — it felt like stepping into a fantasy novel.
We got on our boats which were rowed by the local women there. There were so many boats to accommodate the large number of tourists. Getting onto the rocky boat was definitely my least favorite part of the day lol. But once I was all settled in, we began our beautiful journey and it was amazing! We shared our boat with this lovely Indian couple, which made for some great company. The boat ride itself was super chill.
Passing beneath the caves that stretched for metres was something I had not experienced before. At one point, we ducked under caves so low I was convinced I’d get a bump on my forehead as a souvenir.
About halfway through, we stopped to explore another temple (don’t ask me the name — no guide, no clue). It was peaceful and quiet, tucked between the cliffs like a hidden gem.
Stairway to Sweat: Mua Cave Climb
Stairway to Sweat: Mua Cave Climb
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Our final stop was Mua Cave, climbing 500 steps to reach the mountaintop.
When I say this climb nearly killed me, I’m not even exaggerating. Those steps were STEEP. We paused at every possible opportunity — “to admire the view,” we claimed. But we all knew the truth: we were dying inside 😂 By the time I was halfway up, I was pretty much done and ready to just sit on that step forever. But Ramesh, my personal cheerleader, chimed in with, “20 more steps and we’ll take a break.” And that’s how it started, us counting steps together, making little deals with ourselves till we could pause again.
We finally reached the top, and man, it was totally worth every drop of sweat. All around us were rivers, sweeping rice fields, and those jagged limestone cliffs going on for miles. It was the kind of view that makes you forget how tired you are.
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Unfortunately, there was still one last section left—the climb up to the Dragon Statue. But that path looked seriously sketchy, and I knew there was no way I could make it up the precarious path without risking a dramatic fall. So, with a heavy heart, I let Ramesh take on the final stretch alone, after making him promise to take some amazing photos. Credit where it’s due, he video called me the moment he got up there and showed me the statue and the incredible views. The reception was spotty making the video grainy, but I could still feel the excitement in his voice as he described everything.
He came back all hyped about the view from the peak, which, okay, sounded amazing. But I regret nothing. Sometimes, being alive is better than being adventurous, thank you very much.
Wrapping Up Day 3
Wrapping Up Day 3
After the climb, we were completely wiped out. The ride back to Hanoi was three hours, and I kid you not — we slept like logs on that bus. Ninh Binh is everything people say it is — peaceful, picturesque, a little touristy, but totally worth it. If you love nature and don’t mind a few sore muscles, this place delivers.
Would I do it all over again?
Yep. Even the stair-climb part. Maybe.
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