The title is a little ambiguous not just because I hiked two crazy steep sections of the mountain in one afternoon, but because I had already done another 8 kilometre hike in the morning on a different part of the Table Mountain range. Check out my. Spitzkop Peak hike on my feed a couple days ago.
So by the time I started this hike I was already a little tired. My friend, Val, had invited me to join her at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens which are the pride of Cape Town and a spectacular tourist adventure around the gardens. Val said we would do some hiking around the area. In my mind that meant some walking up the lowers slopes toward the contour path and maybe the Skeleton Gorge waterfall. Boy!!! Was I mistaken!
As I arrived she said she was glad I still had my gear (my husband had dropped me off directly from our other morning hike) and said we were going to just do a quick hike up Skeleton Gorge and down Nursery Ravine. WAIT WHAT????!!!
I’ve done this route before very slowly and it was PAINFUL the next day. And this time I was doing it on tired legs. Oh well, there’s no where else to go but UP!
The four of us started up the paths of Kirstenbosch Gardens that headed for the lower contour path. Up above us we could see the shadow of Skeleton Gorge as the sun was already moving past the peak of the mountain. That quick snack was the fuel I had to get me up there (and back down again).
The contour path eventually meets up with the single track steps that lead up Skeleton Gorge and the constant uphill climb up the wood and stone steps began.
The first milestone was reaching the Middle Contour path and followed it a short way to the Skeleton Gorge waterfall. It’s amazing to see it gushing with water as only a year and half ago it was dry. The 3 year drought had hit us hard but today the dams are full and we are still getting good amounts of rain for the time of year.
Skeleton gorge seems to have layers that change as you climb. The first section had wooden steps and scrubby bushy trees. The next section had stone steps, waterfalls and hanging branches that form a swing. The next section is Boulder hopping through the river (this cannot be done during our winter rainfall). Next is ladders and a steep climb along a rock wall to avoid getting wet. More wood and mud steps until eventually the trees open up to the blue sky and you’re almost at the top. (That's it in a nutshell)
The first wood stairs followed by the rock stairs were already killing me as my legs felt like lead and my heart was beating loudly in my ears. The tall trees and foliage were beautiful but I didn’t even have the energy to get my phone out to take a photo.
We stopped regular and the two guys pulled ahead and waited every now and then for us girls to catch up.
The ladders followed by the boulder climb were no time to be holding anything but onto the rocks we were climbing. Although I found the Boulder climbing far more energising than the soul destroying steps. The unique way that this path constantly changes gives you just enough relief to keep going.
Back on the upper steps my cap blocked my view of a branch that I walked straight into. It wasn’t too bad except that about 100 meters later I realised that I had lost my favourite sunglasses in that moment. There was no chance I was going back to get them so some nice fit hiker has probably now got a cool pair of polarised sunnies.
My heart was still beating in my ears and my face was as red as a tomato so the sight of the upper waterfall was too inviting to turn down. Val and I took turns getting wet and felt refreshed after our little photo op and free shower.
The blue sky opened and the last few steps lead us to the white sand of the Hely Hutchison Dam on the top of Table Mountain. The last time I was here it was like a moonscape with very little water, dry wooden debris and white sand as far as the eye could see.
Now the sky closed over with thick fog, the wind picked up at the top and the dam was filled to the brim! It was like two different places yet one and the same.
Instead of taking a swim we immediately turned back towards the wind shadow and headed for the upper Smuts path towards Nursery Ravine (our way down the mountain). The other path around the back of Cleft Peak would have been too cold and windy and no fun at all. But the Smuts path was protected, and has beautiful views of Cape Towns suburbs and the Kirstenbosch Gardens down below.
Walked over large boulders and through overgrown paths over Cleft Peak and soon reached the telltale handrail that marks the top of Nursery Ravine.
And so the descent began. It’s an endless, carefully placed climb down. Loose rocks, steep wood log steps that have eroded away, small streams running across the path in places. The concentration is intense and doesn’t leave much room for taking in the view. By half way down my legs started to feel like jelly and I had to think about where I was putting my feet and using my pole to make sure I stayed upright at all times.
Soon we were back in the forest, still going down log and mud steps, and the guys were nowhere to be seen. They had gone ahead and left us to our own devices.
Having done a path before doesn’t always makes it easier. Sometimes the “not knowing” is better because you don’t know how much it’s going to hurt. But I knew this one was going to hurt so it became a mental workout as much as a physical one.
We made it to the bottom of the path and then turned right onto the contour that would lead us back towards Kirstenbosch Gardens. Still no guys in sight. Val was quite annoyed with her boyfriend (and his buddy) for leaving us. We knew the way, but it’s not safest way to hike in these mountains.
The walk into Kirstenbosch Gardens felt amazing as our stride picked up and we could walk more briskly and stretch our aching legs. The gardens are always beautiful and welcomed us back with the later afternoon shadows.
We met up with the guys at the same bench where we had begun and we walked straight passed them and headed for the car. We needed a coke and rehydration and tonight the cokes were on Val’s boyfriend.
Here’s a map and stats of the route we took.
You can also follow me on Strava app (Zoe Donald) to see a lot more routes of mountains and hikes around Cape Town and the Western Cape of South Africa.
We have 5 big multi day hikes planned from December 2021 to August 2022 so watch this space for a lot more adventures and hikes around the country and beyond.
