There are places on the Snæfellsnes peninsula that I visit only when friends or family come and I need to show them the most popular spots. As a host I adapt to my guests’ preferences in that respect, though I often suggest something of my own to broaden their picture of this corner of Iceland.
The pattern is always the same - I go to a given place again, usually without much enthusiasm, and yet I still end up enchanted, again and again. Maybe because it's never the same. Light, nature, clouds, smells and sounds change and create a scene that seems familiar, yet new.
That was the case this time too, when, accompanying a friend, I once again visited the black church in Búðir and stopped by Arnarstapi. A simple walk turned into little discovery, because I had never been here in June - a month when even on our island everything is in bloom, it’s green, and it’s light almost around the clock.
The little church in Búðir is one of the iconic photo spots on the map of Iceland.
There used to be a bustling village and an important port here. Already in the time of the first settlers it was an important spot on the map of Iceland. Today, on the edge of a lava field, you’ll find only the church that remains from the former community and new hotel. The current structure of the church was built in the mid-19th century and has undergone several reconstructions since. It isn’t open daily, but you can rent it for various ceremonies and events.
If you’re a fan of walks, there’s a network of paths leading toward the beach as well as west, toward the Búðaklettur crater. An official trail leads to it across the lava field. I visited it last year - on a four-hour outing I met only ptarmigan. That’s exactly why I love Iceland.
That summer day I didn’t have that much time, so I took only a short stroll toward the beach, admiring the Helgrindur mountain range - I live on the other side - and the volcano topped by Snæfellsjökull - our small, local glacier.
I was delighted by the abundance of tiny flowers growing in the folds of the old lava field. Whole carpets of blossoms, sheltered from the wind, yet shallow enough to catch the maximum sun. Close to the ocean I enjoyed the contrast of black rock and yellow sand, which is quite rare in Iceland.
After the short stroll I also took advantage of the lack of tourists by the church to take a farewell photo. Then we went to Arnarstapi.
The village of Arnarstapi is famous for unusual basalt cliffs along the shoreline. Again there is a network of paths in both directions that let you wander for up to two hours if you’re not in a hurry.
My friend went to see the most popular rock formations, while I headed toward the harbor, looking more toward the land than the ocean. I greeted two old friends - Mount Stapafell and, behind it, the Snæfellsjökull glacier.
I first noticed Stapafell two years ago. It's rocky and austere, with a distinctive top called Fellskross - "the mountain cross" - a symbol of sacred power from Viking times. The mountain is said to be home to the hidden people - elves. I love these stories. It seems every mountain here, every rock and crater, is full of some ancient, supernatural stories. You can feel it.
My walk was short - to the tiny harbor and back. As you can see, the famous cliffs weren’t on my mind, so I won’t be showing them here. I ignore postcard views in places I know. All that’s left is to enjoy the view of unknown peaks and anonymous houses :)
See you soon!
Icelandic stories:
A year of transition - small trips and moving to Iceland
Where my home is - "Iceland in miniature"
Winter at my place - not as scary as they said
Chasing spring in Grundarfjörður
Wolf Beans: purple beauty or invasive species? A trip to Ingjaldshóll
Welcome to Mars: Kerlingarfjöll Mountains
Katla's tongue – Sólheimajökull Glacier
In the shadow of the glacier: the stunning Þakgil campsite
Moss and ice: the road east
Basalt and turquoise: Stuðlagil Canyon, East Iceland
Cracked earth - driving to Stykkishólmur
Off the beaten path: Hafrahvammagljúfur Canyon and the hot spring shower
The road to Mývatn: through rain and wilderness
Around Lake Mývatn (1) - Víti Crater and the Hverir geothermal field
Around Lake Mývatn (2) - the monochrome world of Hverfjall
Around Lake Mývatn (3) - Leirhnjúkur: a walk on warm ground
On the way home - Goðafoss, the waterfall of the gods
North Iceland - a small harbor and a basalt coast: Hauganes and Kálfshamarsvík
West Iceland - two unusual waterfalls framed in autumn gold