Israel. Land of war. Land of peace. Land of hope. Land of division. Land of promise. Land of controversy. Land of truth. Land of lies. Israel. A land where the old and the new are so mingled that the present becomes a surreal kaleidoscope.
In all the years I've traveled and lived in various countries, my experience of Israel is like that of a relationship with a person. There are any number of reasons that one can be inexplicably drawn to this Biblical Land - the heart of which is Jerusalem. Believed to be the centre of the world, Jerusalem itself has a rich tapestry of history. One could wander for hours, days even in the various quarters of Jerusalem's Old City. Venturing further afield, the New City, is equally as colourful. An hours drive from Jerusalem is the lowest elevation on earth; the Dead Sea at 423 metres (1,388 ft) below sea level. This tiny country has as varying weather and terrain as one can imagine. The tropical southern holiday destination; Eilat, ideal for diving or quite snorkeling, even in winter. The Negev desert; a barren wilderness that can flood at a moment's notice. The northern lush Galilee, surrounded by mountains. The western coastal cities as developed as any city in any first world country.
By no stretch of the imagination is Israel all sunshine and daisies. This is a country that is home to the three major religions. It is a cosmopolitan of culture, cuisine, belief, history and dreams. It is also a politicians nightmare but today I am not here to argue the ongoing saga of Israel, Arab or Jew, peace or war, division or unity. Today is #marketfriday and so, inspired by 
There are a number of markets in Jerusalem. The main one, the Shuk, being in the New City. It is open 6 days a week and, I believe, as thrilling a place to visit as it was millenia ago. Shoppers and merchants haggle over wares. The place is jam packed with people, aromas, noises and a constant hustle, like a bee hive. It is the best place to watch the diversity that makes up Israel today.
Soldier and Rabbi. Tourist and Pilgrim. Orthodox and Secular. Merchant and Immigrant. Beggar and Businessman. Zealot and Hippie. The market is a cauldron of flavour.
Wherever you go in Israel you find artifacts. Huge archeological evidence dating back to Abraham and Kind David. There's excavations revealing the times of the Romans and Turks. And often you find enormous murals, lovely #streetphotography depicting those ancient times.
Inventions and discoveries for which Israel is responsible are huge and all inclusive. Israel is famous for developing both the drip irrigation system as well as rooftop solar water systems. Israel also invented a bionic walking system which assists paraplegics to stand, walk and climb stairs. In the computing as well as defense department tiny Israel has excelled in advancing the world as we know it.
And yet, wandering through the market, you feel like you are in a time machine. The old and the new meet at every turn. Stalls are piled high with tapestries, clothing, tools and artifacts - generally fake. You can find beautiful wooden board games and delicate jewellry. For furnishing a home there's every practical and gadgety kitchen necessity.
Of course the food section is enormous. The only thing lacking that differs from the ancient markets is live animals! Trays of eggs are stacked up. Icy displays of fresh fish from the Galilee. Delicious goats milk cheeses which, of course delighted my heart!
Having studied Hebrew at the local Ulpan (Hebrew school) for a semester I was able to practice my skills interacting with the shop keepers. Certain stalls one can barter. Others not at all. Part of the market targets the tourist and is therefore priced (outrageously) accordingly but open to bartering. Most of the Shuk supplies the local Israelis. Prices are non negotiable but reasonable. And you get to select your own produce. Whether scooping from heavy sacks of grains and legumes or hand picking fresh fruit and vegetables.
My favourite part of the Jerusalem Shuk is the fresh produce. Delicious and enormous fresh seasonal fruit and veggies pile precariously high. Pomelo fresh from the Golan Heights. Huge sticky dates dripping their date syrup. Red pomegranates which you can pick out and have squeezed to fill a glass with refreshing juice. Dried fruits and nuts are available year around. Another area I love is the spice stalls. Here you can scoop out fresh spice which makes you think you may suddenly find yourself on the ancient Spice route surrounded by the merchants on their camels.
The highlight of my Shuk shopping was always the pastries. But particularly on a Friday when there is a sense of anticipation and excitement. Tomorrow is Shabbat and so all Israel prepare for an almost country wide day off. It is unbelievable. Who doesn't love time out? Imagine the entire country, every Saturday, grinding to a complete halt? And everyone rests. Every Friday at the Jerusalem market you find extra special pastries and most particularly the sweetened braided Shabbat bread, Challah. The idea is that on the Friday you do all your preparation for the sweetness of Shabbat - the sweetness of no work but only feast and REST!
And so, dear readers, with those memories fresh in my mind and the thought of that sticky Challah that I can almost taste I will bid you all goodnight. It is night here in South Africa, as it is in Israel on the same time zone. The seventh day rest isn't quite the same if you are not in Israel but still. I hope you all enjoyed the #marketfriday and I bid you Shabbat Shalom!
