Thanks. I have respect for everyone who paddles out when the swell gets big. I saw Kelly Slater charge some XXL waves earlier this year at Margaret River and the guy just seems fearless. You are right though that it is the 'panic' that will take you out. Fear can keep you sharp but don't let it grow into panic. That's when a situation can turn bad.

Further edit. Some people have asked for any footage from the day. The quality is not so good in this but it does show the power of the waves that came through that day. I'm somewhere in all that mayhem.