Only four years ago, I was doing my first videos with a gopro and a surf under my feet.
For many who have tried surf and given up in the first trials, I am going to give you a few tips. Even though I am far from being a professional surfer, I have taught many students to get up on the board and feel the wave curving behind the board, pushing them to move forward
STEP 1
===== It's all bout tha BASE bout tha BASE, no "trouble".===== (this is my own version)
The base are your feet and hips, more than your legs!
But how is that possible?
I tell you, it is.... You legs should never move too much, keep your knees bent all the time, and you legs still. Your feet, however are crucial! If you want to give direction to the board, you should apply pressure with your heels to move to bring the board up in the lip of the wave, then you apply toes pressure to make the board slide to the other side.
Try this even if you still go straight up to the sand, as we usually learn >>> learn to apply pressure with heels and toes.
STEP 2
========= Every wave has a magic point=======
I am sure you see some guys surfing next to you and they barely move their arms to get on the wave. That's because these guys have enough experience to foresee where the magic point is. This magic point is nothing but the peak of the wave, where the wave starts breaking. This way, you get to use the energy of the wave, and saving your arms from hard paddles. Of course, not every beach offers you a perfect wave, sometimes you gotta paddle hard. My tip for you is; always look at the guys out there and where they are positioned. Maybe you will find another bank, based on what you are observing: search for that magic point and your surf will be easier.
STEP 3
=======Face your board 25-45 degrees towards the wave, either to your left or to your right=====
The idea here is to make you learn to surf the wave itself, not just the foam. I know you wont have a ruler to measure the degree of the surfboard in relation to the wave, but start with a slight inclination to the side you judge the wave will open up to. Then focus your EYES to where you want to go. Try not to look to your board or yo your feet. When you look 2 metres ahead of you in the wave, then your body will respond to it automatically.
(BONUS) STEP 4
====== Watch videos from surf, and try to see these steps on the videos. It is a great way to practice.
Learn the code of ethics
A short video of an "average" surf day.
Questions? Comments? Here to help!