Hi Steemit friends! Welcome to my newest HannahHopsTheGlobe post. This week’s topic: Southern Italy. There is so much to say about this trip that I had to break it into two parts. Today’s focus: Sorrento and Naples!
Oh Southern Italy. Where do I even begin? When I think of my visit to Naples, Sorrento and The Amalfi Coast, so many words come to mind: Breathtaking. Treacherous. Scenic. Frustrating. Delicious. Chaotic. Romantic. Run Down. Beautiful. Let me explain…
Positano (More On This In Part Two!)
During my visit to this part of Southern Italy, I chose Sorrento as my base and then rented a car so I could easily drive to various destinations along the Amalfi Coast. The Sorrentine Peninsula boasts views of Naples, Vesuvius and the Isle of Capri, and is a great spot if you want to visit the Amalfi Coast as well as Naples since it is located somewhat in the middle.
View Next To Hotel in Sorrento
My travel partner and I stayed at the Hotel Continental, and while it is listed as a four star hotel, it honestly left much to be desired. It seems like the hotel may have been in its prime about 40 years ago, but has since fallen into disrepair. The power went out multiple times during our four day stay. The paint was peeling in multiple spots in the room. The curtains appeared to have blood on them (or some other strange red spot?). The toilet only flushed if you were able to practice and perfect a "triple push" technique. The shower, by virtue of having very little protection around it, flooded the bathroom every time it was used. AND, the hotel staff were always looking for ways to acquire tips for meaningless tasks. Despite all of this, the breathtaking views the moment you stepped out of the hotel and location right in the center of Sorrento made all of these issues fade into the background.
Bar Ercolano became a favorite spot in Sorrento to enjoy a cappuccino or aperitivo. Open from early in the morning until late at night, it was the perfect place for a drink or snack. A Sorrento institution situated in the middle of the main square, it was great for taking in the sights and sounds of the town (and also way more reasonably priced than some of the neighboring bars). Not to mention great service, and complimentary snacks with each round of drinks. Always a plus for me!
Aperitivo at Bar Ercolano
Breakfast at Bar Ercolano
While Southern Italy frustrated and challenged me in some ways (more about this as we continue), it absolutely did NOT disappoint in the food department. Every meal was incredible. One of my favorite spots to eat in Sorrento (so good that I ended up going to twice), was Trattoria da Emilia.
View of Waterfront Area, Trattoria da Emilia in Background
Trattoria da Emilia opened in 1947 and is still run by the same family. The cozy, informal dining room is scattered with photos of former patron Sophia Loren, while outside boasts a romantic terrace overlooking the fishing boats in Marina Grande. The menu is filled with classic, simply perfect dishes such as mussels with lemon, spaghetti with clams, and tender grilled calamari. So delicious and such a romantic vibe without a hint of pretension.
Lemon Mussels at Trattoria da Emilia...divine!
Creamy Gnocci at Trattoria da Emilia
If this hasn’t become clear up to this point...food is important to me. A significant portion of my travel activities center around enjoying the local cuisine and finding great spots to eat. Given this, my travel partner and I absolutely had to drive to Naples to find the perfect pizza Napoletana (Neapolitan pizza) during our visit to Southern Italy.
The Streets of Naples
When planning this venture, I could not have possibly anticipated how anxiety inducing and stressful the process of getting to this mythical pizza would be. While the drive from Sorrento to Naples was no problem, descending off the autostrada (highway) and into the city was like diving full force into a dizzying car version of The Hunger Games. Cars were swirling every which way, there wasn’t a single designated lane in sight, and an endless barrage of motorcycles would constantly weave between cars...becoming visible with just enough time for car drivers to slam on the brakes so as to not hit the motorcyclist. Now on top of the visual overstimulation there was simultaneously a chorus of horns blasting endlessly, at all times, no matter what was happening. Basically the rules are, there are no rules. It is Lord of the Flies: the driving edition.
My travel partner, who was the driver and is very experienced in driving all over Europe and in the most chaotic cities in the US, was in a state of full blown panic and was so close to pulling over and ditching the rental car for good. In my state of shock, I just kept shouting “parcheggio!” (parking) over and over again trying to point to potential places to park. Fortunately, at the last moment before we bailed we managed to spot and maneuver our way into a parking garage. Major exhale
We only had time to walk around a bit and enjoy one meal in Naples since after lunch we were continuing on to visit the ancient ruins of Pompeii (which I highly recommend). Given this, we decided to try L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele (commonly known to Neapolitans as Da Michele) of Eat Pray Love fame.
Da Michele
The place was buzzing with patrons when we got there. Upon arrival, you have to get a numbered ticket from a gentleman near the door, and then wait for your number to be called. When enough seats at a table for your party become available, they seat you there, so you might wind up sitting at a table with people you don't know. Patrons don’t seem to mind - I certainly didn’t!
The restaurant was founded by Salvatore Condurro in 1870 and is still run by the Condurro family. It is a charming place, scattered with various old photographs all over the walls. It is a simple, straightforward, and no frills space with the focus being solely on the pizza. The menu (posted on the walls) reflects this, with two pizza options: margherita or marinara. With the margherita, your choices are normal, medium, or double mozzarella. There are just a few drink options to match.
As for the pizza, the pièce de résistance, it was everything I wanted it to be. I ordered the margherita with double mozzarella. The beautifully thin crust was crisp, lightly charred, and pliable. The tomato sauce was flavorful but not overpowering, perfectly blended with the mozarella. I had heard the pizza being described as “soupy” and wasn’t sure how I felt about that, but it oddly is just that. But in the best way possible. Every bite melts in your mouth. Simplicity at its finest.
Was it worth the journey? Absolutely. 100%. Next time though, I will be taking a bus or a train to get there.
Walking around gritty Naples, with it’s one of a kind pizza and one of a kind personality, and staying in Sorrento, in a hotel that has seen better days next to views that couldn’t be better, perfectly summarizes the Southern Italy experience. The vibrancy and beauty of the culture is expressed in such magnificent ways, contrasted by the challenges of old world infrastructure. There is something lovely about that, and I'm glad to have experienced it. Next time I go back for more of their delicious pizza, I will be ready.
I hope you enjoyed reading this post. Please keep an eye out for Part Two, where my focus will be on the part of this trip I spent visiting The Amalfi Coast!
Previous HannahHopsTheGlobe Posts
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Visiting Milan, Italy
HannahHopsTheGlobe: The Charming Swiss Village Gandria (With Photographs)
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Visiting Zurich, Switzerland (With Photographs)
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Travel Photography - A Snapshot of Israel
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Fantastic Finds - Restaurants in Miami That Are Not To Be Missed!
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Tasting Wine in Mendoza, Argentina (Part One)
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Tasting Wine in Mendoza, Argentina (Part Two)
HannahHopsTheGlobe: Dining in Brussels, Belgium