Hey there, dear steemers!
Good to have you back!
So today I will take you on the second walk through Amsterdam and we will start on the Nieuwmarkt, ha, yes the place where we finished last time. My goal is to show you there is more to Amsterdam, than what meets the eye in the busy touristy parts – and off the beaten tracks!
(de Waag on an old postcard from the 1960s)
To start off, let us just stand still on de Nieuwmarkt and take a look around. This is one of the oldest squares in all of Amsterdam. As you might remember from my previous post, that building in the middle of it, the former city-gate, is called de Waag. The square itself, where you are probably standing (albeit imaginary), is built on top of water! However jolly and busy this square can be nowadays, let us not pretend this square has no history. Back in the 18th century, it was the place where public executions were held, and during the WWII, this square was used by the Germans to round up all the Jews from the neighborhood. So, yeah, it was a little less fun at times...
Another thing that is quite clear to see here, is that Amsterdam was built on top of a swamp. Actually, much of the city is sinking and the oldest buildings – of course – sink the most. So, in 2010, when people feared that one of the towers of de Waag was about to collapse, the whole foundation of the building had to be renewed. On the picture below, borrowed from a website about Amsterdam, you can clearly see the clay layer on which Amsterdam is built. I know, if only we could go back in time and just think twice… then again, we know a lot about fighting water now.
Apart from the markets during the week, I would highly recommend going on Saturday when there is an organic food market! That is if you booked yourself an Airbnb and want to cook yourself a meal. Furthermore, you will also see all sorts of cafes and bars surrounding the square. From hip and trendy, to exotically themed, to old and dusty unpretentious little restaurants. Everyone will find a place here that will give them the right feels. For nice sandwiches and a moment of sitting down, go to Café Fonteyn, which is especially popular during summer.
Pro-tip: Dot forget sunglasses when you choose to spend some time here!
However, in case you started this day around breakfast or lunch, or you are in for your second breakfast or lunch, or just basically always hungry, let me then recommend you to go to a real Amsterdam butcher called Vincent on the other corner next to de Waag. You will get awesome sandwiches here, why? Because they will just put on your sandwich whatever YOU like. This place is nothing pretentious, but no need if you have an awesome piece of roast beef with truffle-mayo on top of freshly baked bread just for a few bucks. This is what kept me going when I was still studying in the old university library around the corner; sigh those were the days.
Anyway, let's us now continue our walk! We will go to the Antonie Breestraat, or better known as de Jodenbreestraat. Before the second world war, about 25.000 Jews were living in this area. Walking through this street you can see that a lot of the houses are quite new here. This is because a lot of the houses remained empty after the war, so they became badly maintained and had to be taken down when a new metro-line was built in the 1970s.
However, in between all these new buildings, after walking for about 100 meters you will see a tiny, old, crooked house next to a bridge on your left that survived this period. This little café is called De Sluyswacht, popular amongst students and locals. In 1695, it was used as the home of the Sluice Master, aka the man who would control the sluice. It still features in one of Rembrandt's paintings, who – not coincidently – lived for almost 20 years across the street!
If you love art history and particularly the old Dutch painters, hop in this little museum on the opposite side of the road! Ultimately, it was here that the famous 'Nachtwacht' was painted.
Now let's walk a bit further. Behind het Rembrandt-huis you can see the opera building, and next to that there are markets on weekdays as well. To go there I will show you one of my favorite vintage shops - Kiloshop! Take a look inside – buy stuff by the kilo – and come back out either via the back-exit at Waterlooplein (next to the opera building) or via the front entrance at de Jodenbreestraat.
After that, continue walking on de Jodenbreestraat, or via Waterlooplein towards the crossing in the middle of the square and you will see the former Jewish Synagogue.
I have to be honest, I had not been inside since a couple of months ago until one of my colleagues from Sweden came to visit and there was a nice concert that night. But take hold of the agenda, because a lot of beautiful music is played over here. And you will not be disappointed by its beauty, especially at night!
If you have a chance to peek inside, take it! This synagogue was once the biggest in the world.
Now we will continue our walk northwards, towards het Scheepvaartmuseum. When I was young, I used to go here with my dad and my sister. My dad would tell me all about the VOC (Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie) and how important the Netherlands once was! Haha! The museum has been renovated a couple of years back, and it truly is a beautiful and really nice museum to go to. If you do not feel like going inside, check out the ship in front of the museum. It is one of the replica's of the ship de Amsterdam that went for Batavia (Indonesia) in 1749, but unfortunately never came further than Hastings (UK).
To end your day truly well, I will give you two options. If you want the chill, nothing fancy, just lovely food? Then first walk back in the direction of the Nieuwmarkt via de Koningstraat and go for this little place for freshly baked pizza IL SOGNO. I just LOVE the pizza's there! And it's actually more like a cute little concept store where you can also stash up on some amazing Italian products.
The other option is to take a bite at Hemelse Modder (holy mud) for a few courses of modern Dutch cuisine.
If you still have some energy left, then go to one of my favorite cocktail places in Amsterdam, called Hiding in plain sight. It is not far from you! (make reservations when you want to go on a Saturday)
Well, that was it for today, my lovely friends!
I really really hope you had a nice day when you decided to take on my recommendations and directions. But I also truly hope this was a nice inspiring read to visit Amsterdam in the near future! More posts will come, so let me know if you have some suggestions! Is there something you would like to know more about? Is there something that I should talk less about? All suggestions are really welcome!!