WHAT TO PUT A WALL?
The composition for the plaster is determined by the material of the wall coating, as well as by the location of the prepared surface (indoors or outdoors).
Walls of ordinary brick. Cement mortar is used for plastering. When carrying out outdoor work, as well as with high humidity of the premises being repaired, lime is added to the solution. The layer of plaster on brick walls should be no more than 30 mm. If the thickness exceeds 20 mm, it is necessary to pre-reinforce the wall in order to prevent flaking of the plaster in the future. Manufacturing of cement mortar with their own hands: mix cement (1 h) and sand (2-5 h). Gradually adding water, mix the solution. In consistency, it should resemble a dough. To prepare a cement-lime mortar with their own hands, it is necessary to mix cement (1 hour) and sand (6-8 hours), add diluted lime. Mix all ingredients thoroughly. If it's too thick, add a little water.
Walls from facing bricks. Smooth polished surface of such a coating is difficult to plaster and when performing poor-quality works, the plaster can simply fall off together with the reinforcement. Therefore, it is better to seek professional help.
Smooth concrete walls. Plastering is carried out by a cement mortar with the addition of quartz particles and gypsum. Quartz in this case gives the wall the roughness needed to better bond the solution to the wall surface. Making lime-plaster mortar with their own hands: in a container with water, a thin layer of gypsum (1 part) is poured and mixed quickly. Then lime milk is added. The resulting mixture is thoroughly kneaded. The mass should not be very thick.
Rough concrete wall. For its plastering is not required with the use of a special quartz primer. It is enough to apply 'Concrete contact'. The mortar for plaster can be either plaster or cement.
Foam concrete walls. The surface should be pre-treated with a deeply penetrating primer. Usually, such walls are plastered with gypsum mortar, but cement can also be used.
The choice of the type of mortar for plastering must be approached with all responsibility, because this determines the further life of the coating. If you have any doubts - it is better to contact the building store for professional advice.

In addition to the homemade solution, you can use ready-made plasters, which in a large range are presented in the construction market. One of the most popular and widespread mixtures to date is Rothband.

PRIMARY SURFACE PRIMER

If the wall has a highly absorbent base - silicate brick or aerated concrete, a deeply penetrating primer (Tiefengrunt or its analogs) is used. In addition to the fact that such a primer significantly improves the adhesion of the mortar to the substrate, it also additionally strengthens the wall. Before starting the work, the primer must be thoroughly mixed. Strongly absorbent surfaces are treated twice.

For priming smooth surfaces that do not absorb moisture, a special mixture is used - 'Concrete contact'. Before applying the primer, it is necessary to clean the wall surface from dirt and dust, remove the exfoliating old plaster with a spatula or brush. 'Concrete contact' before use, mix thoroughly and dilute with water (no more than 1 hour for 2 hours mixture) if necessary. Plastering of the surface with their own hands should be started only after the entire drying of the soil layer.

PREPARATION OF SURFACE TO PLASTING

To begin with, it is necessary to remove all old finish and plaster, if any, completely clean the wall from sags, dust and dirt.

A shingle is mounted on the wooden base, which can be made from plywood scraps or thin rails. It is recommended to fill the material diagonally. A dredge will be produced, which will serve as a beacon and hold plaster on the wall surface. Instead of wooden racks, it is allowed to use a mesh netting. Wire fittings are mounted on plywood strips so that the distance between the mesh and the wall surface is not less than 3 mm.

On the concrete smooth wall with the help of a hammer and a tooth are made notches 3 mm deep and 15 mm long. The number of incisions depends on the area and is calculated according to the formula 250 * m2. Brick wall. To improve the adhesion of the mortar to the wall surface, grooves are made between the bricks up to 1 cm.

Wood and brick surfaces should be moistened with water using a garden sprayer or an ordinary broom before applying the plaster. The walls of concrete are treated with a special ground mixture - 'Concrete contact'. For a porous wall surface (silicate brick, aerated concrete, foam concrete), a deeply penetrating primer is used. A strongly absorbent base is treated twice. After the primer has completely dried, it is possible to proceed directly to plastering the walls.

STEPS STITCHING OF WALL SURFACES

Plaster of walls plaster is applied to walls in several layers.

'Obryzg'

Self-made grout for consistency should resemble sour cream. The thickness of the first layer for wooden surfaces is 10 mm, for stone and brick - 4-5 mm.

There are two ways of applying the solution:

Spray. A portion of the solution is collected in the falcon and with the help of a plaster blade pushes forcefully onto the wall in an arbitrary order. Spraying motion is not performed with the whole hand, but with a brush only. That the solution does not scatter in the different directions, it is not necessary to do too big zamahi. With this method of application, the particles of the solution easily penetrate into the cavities of the wall surface, therefore, it is better to apply plaster in this way.
Smearing. The solution is simply smeared on the wall with a plaster shovel (trowel). After applying the first layer on the wall surface, it is necessary to remove the too bulging areas, it is not necessary to level the solution.
'Grunt'

The mortar must be a dough-like consistency. First, the readiness of the 'spray' applied earlier (if the surface is not punctured - the 'spray' has dried up) is checked and only after the first layer has dried completely, the second one is applied. Throwing a solution on the wall, you must try to repair all the voids. We level the surface with a rule from the bottom up, incidentally filling the remaining empty areas. And at the last stage, to achieve the effect of a flat wall, we use half-tufts, conducting them on the surface in a vertical and horizontal direction. For wooden walls, the thickness of the second layer should not exceed 20 mm. Leave it to dry completely.

'Cover'

This is the so-called finishing layer of plaster, designed to hide all the shortcomings of the 'soil'. A solution of creamy consistency is prepared. All components included in it, are pre-sieved through a sieve, in order to prevent the appearance of lumps. The surface of the 'soil' is wetted with water and a thin layer of mortar is applied with a plaster blade. Then, with a half-wipe, performing wave-like or circular movements, level the surface. It is not necessary to wait for complete drying of this layer of plaster. We proceed to trowel.

PLACING PLASTER

Round. The wooden trowel is firmly pressed against the wall and circular movements counter-clockwise, we begin grout. The sharp edge of the tool at the same time cuts off any irregularities and protrusions. If the 'cover' layer has already hardened - moisten it with water.

Vzrosgon. To remove traces of circular movements, you need to press the grater against the wall and make some sharp strokes. To achieve the best result, you can walk on the surface of a grater, embroidered with felt or felt.

So, we found out that the independent plastering of the walls is a real feasible task and if you follow all the rules and regulations, you can deal with it without attracting strangers.