Road Trip Postcard in Auvergne: Explore The Charming Village of Salers, France (Part 2)

Serendipitously, I found paintings of Salers in an Art Book many years before this exact visit, but I don't remember if the book was from a real library or in a dream. I am an active dreamer who sometimes ends up in places with a bizarre familiarity in waking life. This destination was one of those déjà vu scenarios.

Salers is one of the 164 most beautiful villages in France and was ranked as one of the most ideal places to retire in the country.

They received this recognition in 1982 from Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, an association founded the same year that highlights the rich cultural heritage of small French rural villages after passing through strict criteria.

It is not a destination that pops up as an item to cross off in an itinerary smorgasbord when visiting big cities. Salers is one of those places that you had to intentionally go to because it is remote and lost in the western fringes of the sprawling Volcanic Cantal Mountains in Auvergne.

Source

It's more than 6 hours drive south of Paris. The closest city in Massif Central is Aurillac 42 kilometers away and to conveniently travel to Salers is best with a private vehicle.

View from the ramparts

We drove through the captivating hills in a small sedan during our 1 week organized family vacation in Le Lioran. I had no clue where we were headed. There were two destinations that I heard in the car considered as a must-see for this trip and these were Salers and Murat scheduled on two separate occasions.

Full from the sumptuous lunch from the hotel of truffade, a local delicacy of slow-cooked thinly sliced potato pancake submerged in cream, cheese, and goose fat, surprisingly there was not a tiny hint of sleepiness afterward. The fascinating trip itself to get there will keep your eyes bolted to the windshield.

The afternoon sun was high and the clear blue sky immediately set a bright backdrop against the usually drab black volcanic stone buildings. The sight of Salers was equivalent to a shot of espresso.

We parked the car in a free public parking space outside the village. Salers is best explored by easy walking. The town is small so allow 1 to 2 hours to enjoy the entire visit.

Place Tyssandier-d'Escous

A plethora of seemingly well preserved yet carefully curated rustic shops will welcome you in every alley and street that led up to the popular Place Tyssandier-d'Escous.

Similar to time travel, its architecture illustrates an evolution from the 15th century to the renaissance, thus the presence of decorative Renaissance houses.

This is one of my favorite areas in Salers right in front of Maison Bertrandy. The path leads to Porte de la Martille. We found this woman on the left photo below who is a poster child for Salers being an ideal retirement location.

Le Monument aux Morts translated as the monument of the dead is a triumphal arch situated next to the church built in honor of those who fought in the war.

Interesting Shopfronts and Signage

The shopfronts and their signage is an exhibition of its own. Allow me to take you for a tour of the various ornate commercial facades.

Librairie means a bookstore and not a library and Chapellerie means Hat Store

Beware of signs on windows especially ones against photography or you'll get an angry shopkeeper screaming profanities in french. I didn't get that here though, I didn't dare enter the shops unless there was food inside like the one below. 😁

Boucherie and Charcuterie Shops offer local meat and cured meat products.

Tripoux is a traditional Auvergne dish made of sheep's tripes with vegetables, sheep's feet, and sweetbreads inside those jars.

Visiting a French village without a bakery and a pastry shop is impossible. One would usually find several ones in a small town. This allows them to cooperate and schedule vacations so that the town still gets their bread supply when one is closed.

Gentiane as shown above is a special very bitter digestive liqueur from Salers that is distilled from a root of a wild plant that grows locally. The above liqueur has been aged around 50 years old.

Guess what, the name Salers is derived from a specific breed of cows native to Auvergne.

Travel Tip: Check out the burons in the surrounding areas of the countryside when you have the time.

My Takeaway

I have seen many beautiful villages in France but Salers has a special something that I can't seem to put my finger on. Perhaps it's the stunning views from the Barrouze, the fact that you're right on the Parc des Volcans of Auvergne, or the Romanesque and Renaissance architecture that seems to be frozen in time? Maybe it's the harmony and tranquility that are present as you discover every nook and alley?

Whatever it is, the timeless charm of Salers will always be embedded in my memory. Thank you for reading! Which shop will you most likely find irresistible to enter?

"I am an old soul who simply loves coffee, who finds joy and beauty in both tangible and the unseen."

@discoveringarni

_{Curiosity and imagination lead to unexpected experiences. Interested in Nature, Places, Roads Less Traveled, Minimalism, Authentic Living, Anything French, and International Cuisine. Feel free to follow her, re-blog, and upvote if you enjoy her content.}